#00-buck size ????

Metal god

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So I’m pretty new to shotgun reloading and have some .330 buck that I’ve loaded with . Can I load .340 sized buck the same way with same charge . I can’t find any .330 but can find lots of .340 . Looking to pick up 44lbs of the .340 if it will work .

I’m using HS-6 for powder and think it’s a tad bulky for this load but its all I have suitable for 00-buck is there another powder with a tad less fill rate that might be available somewhere. I forget all the other components I’m using but its the same thing on Hodgdon website using HS-6 , Win 209 and 00-buck
 
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If the weight of the charge is the same, the powder doesn't care. That said, check stack heights because with buck it is more hands-on
 
Well my stack height is already an issue with the .330 shot . I already have issues getting the right crimp . IMO that is do to the powder charge . 30gr of HS-6 fills the bottom of the hul quite a bit . I believe that raises the wad resulting in a higher stack height then is optimal .

Now I started reloading 12ga at the height of the panic and really mostly tried using the powder and primers I had available to me which pigeonholed my load capabilities . Maybe I can find a powder now that fills the case less which may result in a better stack height .

The other thing to consider is that I recently acquired an old MEC press replacing the plastic Lee loadall . I was hoping the MEC would crimp everything down better . I don’t know but feel maybe the Lee was not collapsing the wad enough . It just seems odd that a published load will not allow a full crimp . It’s close but I’ve been told it would likely come loose over time .

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Now I started reloading 12ga at the height of the panic and really mostly tried using the powder and primers I had available to me which pigeonholed my load capabilities

Since it sounds like you are fairly new to shotshell loading there are some things I wonder if you are aware of, and forgive me for asking if you already know...

Do you know about the differences between high brass and low brass shells, and high base wad and low base wad cases?

Back in the 70s when I got into shotshell reloading, ANY variation from the published data was strongly discouraged, for safety reasons. Unlike metallic cartridge reloading, shotshell and shot gun safety margins are much lower. A change of components that might result in a small pressure excursion that would essentially be unnoticed in a pistol or a rifle MIGHT be dangerous in a shot gun. SO the rule was only EXACTLY what was in the data was used.

Specific case, specific wad, primer, powder & charge, and shot weight. Shot SIZE could be anything you wanted, as long as the weight was right.

Typically heavier loads, and buckshot were loaded in high brass, low base wad hulls. Light loads, field, trap & skeet were loaded in low brass (high base wad) hulls.

I realize you've only got what you've got, but the picture is a low brass hull, and those typically have high base wads, and so not as much room for powder as a low base wad hull.

Wad heights vary as well. Everything has to be matched correctly, hull, wad, powder type and amount or you can get the "stack height" problem. Other problems are also possible.

the "simple" solution if your crimp isn't right, is to just use a little less shot and see if that solves the problem.

Other than your shot size, compare closely what your data says against what you have, if ALL components are not an exact match, then you're off the map and in the weeds a bit, and the dragons that sleep in the shotgun weeds sleep lightly and are easily woken. Tread carefully and don't get eaten!! :D
 
I know there are those differences but have no idea what manufacture makes what for what and when to use . I literally found a load that used the components I had or could get and that's what I tried . Because that's all I've ever used or even handled . those are really the only components I know .

As you pointed out , I have no intent on changing published loads . The issue is I still don't have anything else to try . I have to assume but will check , if 9 bigger pellets weighs more then the 9 smaller pellets . The problem is I will only know the weight differences if I buy the different shot and I don't want to buy it if I don't know if it will work .

I guess my overall question is . Do I have the max crimp available based on my current stack ? If I use the new MEC will the wad legs/scansions flex/bend enough to allow for a proper crimp . If I can't get a good crimp based on my current sized buck shot , no way in hell I get one with larger diameter shot .
 
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I have to assume but will check , if 9 bigger pellets weighs more then the 9 smaller pellets . The problem is I will only know the weight differences if I buy the different shot and I don't want to buy it if I don't know if it will work .

If made of comparable lead alloy then of course 9 bigger pellets will weigh more than 9 smaller pellets. Standard size 00 buck is .32-33" .34" isn't so much bigger to be 000. If you feel like it, basic geometry will let you calculate the difference in volume so you could calculate the difference in weight, I don't think the weight difference will be critical your issue is the size (height) of 9 pellets in the stack.

If your crinmp is bulged as it is right now with 9 .330" pellets, it will be worse using 9 .340" pellets.

Since you can't change the length of the hull, or its internal basewad height, the only places you can adjust are the powder charge, the wad column, or the height of the shot in the cup.

Since like most of us, components are scarce and you don't have a selection of hulls wads or powders to choose from, the simplest thing is to just use 8 pellets instead of 9, and see if that allows for a good crimp, and also meets your needs.
 
I was going to suggest component wads like I used back in the day, but it seems like their time has passed and there is very limited availability now. What is out there is for the black powder shooters. I'll admit that the one-piece plastic wads are a lot easier than using three different wads on a particular hull. It's been over forty years since I loaded any shot shells. Probably time to cull all that gear and components.
 
It just seems odd that a published load will not allow a full crimp . It’s close but I’ve been told it would likely come loose over time .

What is the load? (Powder, hull, wad, shot) If it is a published load, and the components are right, then it might be a slight press adjustment
 
A lot of really bad information in this thread.
I've loaded a lot of shotgun hulls over the years and I hate to see someone misled.

Here is the simplest way to load buckshot.
  1. Get a published tested load from BPI, Hodgdon, Precision Reloading, Lyman, etc. Don't get hung up on chasing highest velocity - believe me that 1150fps is enough and 1400fps is gravy.
  2. find the components listed in the load. You can substitute diameter ( EU vs US) as long as weight remains equal. Do not drastically change shot size, i.e. from 00 buck to #4 buck as pressures will change
  3. You can substitute a roll crimp for a fold crimp - the pressure will actually be lower. Also, a roll crimp is easy to apply and is very stack height insensitive.
  4. If you can buy new primed hulls that work with your recipe then you don't need a reloading press at all.
  5. Follow the recipe. If you've got a lot of HS6 then find a specific recipe for HS6. BPI (Ballistic Products Inc) used to publish a load book for buckshot, and the Lyman load book had quite a few buckshot loads.
  6. Think about what performance means to you. Do you want pellets that are going as fast as possible at 5yds but fly off crazily at 20yds? Or do you want an 8" pattern at 30yds? Trying to go too fast can flatten pellets which then fly kindof wild.
  7. Follow the recipe. Follow the recipe. Follow the recipe. ..
  8. If you want to get creative with components, get your shells pressure tested - I have. Precision Reloading in South Dakota used to do shotgun shell pressure testing. No reason to wreck a shotgun.
 
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